Text: ***google translated from Korean to English via google translate

Informant:

“Back when I was in the military 30 years ago, our country was slowly becoming a developed nation. As a result, the military decided to copy foreign armies and offer a wider variety of food option. Western-style dishes began appearing on the menu on weekends. That dish was the “gundaeria” – essentially a chicken patty and some shredded lettuce inside a hamburger bun. It didn’t taste particularly good, but it was a welcome change from the usual rice and soup, and since it was something you could only get while in the service, it’s something I Iook back on in a bittersweet way. When I first saw it, it felt like nothing more than a cheap imitation of a real hamburger. As for the taste? It tasted like shit. Looking back now, even that has become a cherished memory”

Context:

The informant is a 51 year man born and raised in South Korea. As a South Korean male, he was required to serve in the military, and he served in the Korean army from October 1994~ December 1996 after his freshman year in college. This topic came up when we were talking about military food, when I told him about my worries for food quality at my military training center for ROTC. As shown in his words, his first impression was not particularly good, but it has become one of his core memories from his time in the military.

Analysis:

In my opinion, this piece of food folklore serves great historical value that helps one understand the culture and history of South Korea. Historically, as South Korea rapidly industrialized and grew its economy following its desolate state after the Korean War, issues in human rights, free speech, and democracy were often suppressed by force to prioritize improving its world image as a developed nation and growing the economy. Likewise, this dish symbolizes this trend of Korean history, as it was introduced to mimic the Western and developed countries South Korea strived for, but its inner truth of cheap ingredients could not be masked, as shown from the informant’s distaste for the actual dish.

Despite its horrid taste, however, its exclusivity of only being served on weekends and contrast from traditional military meals created the dish’s significance for soldiers during their service, and gundaeria’s distinct taste only being something you could taste in the military made it an unforgettable memory for veterans at that time like my informant. Hence, just like this famous Ratatouille scene where the critic is blown away by the dish’s ability to bring back nostalgic memories, it goes to show that folk dishes can become significant not just for its taste, but for the nostalgic values it brings. Moreover, this exclusivity surrounding this food also becomes something that only the Korean military veterans folk group can relate to, serving as a group marker. In short, while it may not be remembered for taste, gundaeria is a folk dish that provides historical commentary and a reminder of shared experiences.